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Forum
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RE: surge vs electric
Yes, backing up when towing a car, whether its with a dolly or flat towing, is risky at best, impossible at worst.
Best way I've found to back up if you have to, and this only works for flat towing, not a dolly: Have another driver get in the towed vehicle, with a radio (or cell phone) to be able to communicate with driver in the Motorhome. And, with careful coordination between driver in the Motorhome and driver in the towed vehicle, person in the towed vehicle gently 'pulls' the whole rig backwards with the towed vehicle. Me and my wife have done this a couple of times, and it works OK.
If you try to push the towed vehicle backwards with the Motorhome, you may be able to go STRAIGHT back for a few feet, maybe more. If you're going downhill, you may be able to back up a good ways that way. But, eventually, the towed vehicles wheels will turn opposite direction as tow bar (or dolly) turns, and you will have to stop or risk doing serious damage.
I would not worry about backing, for a surge brake system on a tow dolly, as reality is you will probably never do it (back up) without unhooking first. Or at least, you won't back up long or often enough for the surge brake to be a concern.
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willald
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11/16/23 11:42am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Rodent repellant
We live in the country, and park the RV at our house. Our yard is mostly woods, so we know mice are around. Had a big problem with mice getting in the RV and wreaking havoc.
We tried Grandpa Gus, the peppermint drops, various other things like that. None of them worked. Mice kept coming back, we kept seeing evidence of them (their poop). At one point those little s**ts ate up every one of the dog treats we had out there - tore open the bag by chewing it, and ate every one of the calming chews!
Tried a manual trap, one that traps them inside. Set up a camera in the drawer where we put both that trap, and one of those glue traps. Wanted to see just what was going on. Well, we watched that smart little s**t (mouse) dance right around and avoid the glue traps, go in the trap, and right back out, unscathed. Mice can be very smart creatures, haha!
Finally, we spent a few more $$ and got some of the electronic traps - The kind you put some bait in, and when mouse goes in, it quickly electrocutes them, they die very quickly. THAT, worked very well. Immediately we caught and got rid of 2 mice in the camper. And, by using the cameras that notified us on our phones when there was any movement in there, we knew exactly when the mice were caught.
After they were gone, we got whats called a 'Bye critter' device that you plug into the wall. Its a sonic device, emits a sound we can't hear, but drives critters away. There are several different kinds of these, but the bye critter unit is one of the only ones that its sound can (supposedly) go through walls and had the best range. Anyway, we put one of those in several months ago, have not had a mouse problem ever since.
I agree that the best solution is to try and seal off anywhere they could possibly be getting in. Due to the way many RVs are designed, though, sometimes that is just not possible. These critters can squeeze in the smallest gaps like you wouldn't believe.
Sometimes, you just have to find another way to keep them out, like we did.
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willald
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11/16/23 08:49am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Ford 7.3 engine users?
.....
Maybe I just change my user name to Godzilla and troll Ram threads so I have some sort of self claimed credibility.
I was trying to stay out of the chest pounding and brow beating, but to this, I gotta say, in the words of 'Larry the cable guy':
"Now thats funny right there, I don't care who you are!" :) :)
Will
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willald
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11/14/23 10:58am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Microwave failure after just 2 years...why?
Thanks for all the suggestions on how I could've possibly repaired the microwave. Will definitely keep that in mind if this ever happens again.
Unfortunately, that is water under the bridge now, as we have already replaced the microwave, and junked the old one.
I did consider taking apart the old microwave and trying to fix it, but after reading about the big capacitor that microwaves have in them and what it can do to you if you don't discharge it correctly... I kinda 'chickened' out on trying to repair myself, and just replaced it.
Thought of taking to a repair shop, but couldn't find one around here that I trusted to do this, that I wouldn't have risked ending up with a repair bill close to what a new one would cost, anyway.
Yeah, I might've wasted some $$ on a new microwave when old one could've possibly been repaired. But, was still a LOT cheaper than what an RV dealer would've charged to do this, AND a lot cheaper than a hospital bill (or worse) from being electrocuted by a discharging capacitor. :)
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willald
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11/14/23 07:27am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Microwave failure after just 2 years...why?
wiladd,
Great that you found a good replacement. I might have gone to walmart instead.
Oh, I tried. They didn't have the one I needed.
I suppose I could've gone with another model/brand that was cheaper at Walmart, but really wanted to keep as close to what was in it originally as possible.
Low voltage is an inductive load device killer. The microwave is an inductive device.
I use my autoformer a lot.
Yeah, I'm starting to see from this, that maybe an autoformer will be the next new RV gadget I look into.
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willald
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11/13/23 02:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Microwave failure after just 2 years...why?
Appliance fail. Does not make any difference if Home or RV. Of course, RV's are NOT supposed to be run on power less than 50 or 30 amp. 20 amp you have run on. BUT, your EMS system does NOT protect from low voltage. So, Rvr's continually operate on suspect line voltages and even some CG voltages are suspect (30 and 50). LOW and HIGH voltage will cause appliances to fail. I will relate a story since you have a Newmar. We used to sell Newmar 1993 to 2008.(2003) A customer under warranty went to Northern Illinois and parked at a 50 amp CG. Came back after a day of sightseeing and there was a note on his door. Went next door and his neighbor explained that a bolt of lightning hit the Power electrical pole behind his Camp site. Went inside his RV and found almost all his 120 electrical appliances were burnt out. IF his neighbor had not told him what happened he would have blamed Newmar and the appliance makers. Doug
PS, so things happen when camping on various 120 power supplies.
Thanks, Doug, was hoping you'd chime in on this, as always value, respect your expertise on these things. :)
Hadn't really thought of low voltage, and the fact that EMS does not protect against that. That may well be what caused this.
Perhaps running both a microwave and toaster at same time was a very bad idea when only on 20 amp power. That alone may have caused the voltage to drop. We won't do that again, and I guess will just have to be much more cautious the few times we camp where we only have 20 amp power.
Will
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willald
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11/13/23 11:46am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Microwave failure after just 2 years...why?
Newmar buys a few hundred, Best Buy buys thousands. Why would you even go to a manufacturer to buy an off the shelf item?
Good point.
Only reason I called Newmar was, I couldn't find the exact original model, and thought maybe Newmar could get their hands on such. Turns out, they had same model I'd already found at Best Buy for much cheaper.
Will
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willald
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11/13/23 10:21am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Microwave failure after just 2 years...why?
Not surprised on the price that Newmar wanted. Had a similar thing with my Bounder when the MW died - during dinner prep. Fleetwood wanted around $1100 if I recall. Of course the model was out of production, so nothing available. Figured out the problem, and it was recommended that I replace the failed part, door switch, with a upgraded design for about $20.
Yes, mine was already out of production, too, but fortunately the manufacturer (Whirlpool) made a unit almost identical to the original, with actually more features. Thats the one that Newmar wanted $1200 for, and I got from Best Buy much cheaper.
I thought about taking the microwave apart and trying to fix it like you did, but got nervous when read about having to discharge that capacitor in it, and how bad it could hurt you if you mess that up somehow. Besides, was pretty sure based on what happened that it was the Magnetron that had gone out, and I really didn't want to mess with replacing that.
Will
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willald
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11/13/23 10:07am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ford 7.3 engine users?
I don't own a pickup truck with the 7.3 V8, but I *DO* own a Motorhome with the 7.3 V8 engine (see signature). Sooo, I can provide what I think the original poster was asking for - Real world experience from someone that actually owns and has towed heavy loads with the 7.3 (instead of just fueling the diesel vs gas brow beating and chest pounding that this thread has become, haha).
Anyway, I have driven our Newmar with the 7.3 V8 quite a bit the last 2 years we've owned it. Been through many mountain passes towing our Jeep (probably around 25k total weight). It handles the hills very well, about like you'd expect a big block gasser. Yes, it drops down a gear, turns some higher RPMs and gets loud. But, it will go up the mountain passes just fine, going pretty much as fast as I want to.
I am not going to suggest this engine tows as good as a diesel, nor that it slows, has braking like any diesel. Two entirely different animals, and there is no doubt that for heavy, heavy towing, diesel is the better choice, provided you can afford it and can deal with all that comes with owning a diesel.
However, I will tell you, that as far as gasser engines go, this 7.3 is the best I've ever owned for towing. And I've owned several - two different 6.8 V10 powered vehicles (Ford Excursion towing 34' TT and 36' class A MH towing various cars), as well as several smaller V8 powered trucks. The 7.3 puts out very, very good torque at low RPMs for a gasser. Don't recall specifics, but IIRC, the torque curve on the motor is very flat, it puts out over 400 ft-lbs of torque from 2000 RPM on up. It is a big improvement over the 6.8 V10 it replaces - Generates its torque lower in the RPM range, so a good bit quieter overall. And, when it does get loud, its a good loud, as in, a throaty V8 growl, haha. The V10 didn't sound quite the same.
As far as engine braking goes - Any time I start down a hill, I just make sure its in tow/haul mode, and just lightly tap the brake when I need to slow down, it drops down a gear, and holds it down to whatever speed I want. No, it is not like a diesel exhaust brake, but it works fine for me and our 25k of Motorhome and Jeep. Is a big improvement over the V10 it replaced.
No, its not a diesel. But, its a big improvement over the engine it replaced, and I don't believe there is any other stock gasser engine that comes close to it for heavy towing. Ford definitely narrowed the gap some with the diesels when they came out with this engine. It provides a great option to those that need to tow fairly heavy loads, but don't want to shell out all the $$ a diesel costs, or don't want diesel for other reasons.
If the day ever comes that I go back to a towable RV and need a heavy pickup for towing.....There is no question what it would be: Either an F250 or F350, with the 7.3 gasser V8.
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willald
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11/13/23 09:49am |
Tow Vehicles
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Microwave failure after just 2 years...why?
We just got back a few weeks ago from a great trip (camping), at a hipcamp farm camp site up in Maryland. Was up there visiting family, friends, and had a great trip. We were at a very remote campsite at a farm, where was plugged into just 20 amp power (with appropriate adapters).
Anyway, all went great, we have camped there many times and love it up there. However, on last day, the microwave in the Motorhome quit working. Would still come on, act like it was working, but would not heat anything. Magnetron blew out, I believe.
When we got home, I started looking into a replacement. Of course, Whirlpool only has a 1 year warranty, unit is 2 years old so its my problem, haha.
Called Newmar customer support (RV is a Newmar, see signature), they wanted $1200 for the replacement (Whirlpool) microwave, plus installation! I found almost exact replacement microwave they were referring to at Best Buy, for just $500! Anyway, I told Newmar, no thanks, and decided I am quite capable of removing and installing a microwave myself. Soo, bought the microwave from Best Buy, had old one out, new one in and working, maybe an hour of work, tops (and I was taking my time). Also got a great discount since my son works there (Best Buy), that included a 5 year warranty on the new microwave in case this happens again.
Newmar wanted $1200, for a microwave I was able to get locally for $500! I guess Newmar thinks that anyone that buys their RVs must be very, very wealthy and blow their nose on $1000 bills, haha. Nope, not me.
This is not at all meant as a slight or bash on Newmar, I'm sure all RV companies do similar things. Its more a reminder, that the more you can do yourself with these things, the better off your bank account will be, haha.
Anyway, now, trying to understand why a microwave blew out after just 2 years. I've owned microwaves for years and years, this is first time I've ever had one quit, and never, ever heard of one going out this soon. Sooo, why, what caused it to quit after just 2 years?
Here is my suspicion, that I'm curious what everyone thinks: The RV has a power management system, that sheds, adds various loads to keep you within your power limits, and keep you from blowing any breakers. It senses whether you are on 50, 30, or 20 amp power, and limits your power use accordingly. It will shed power to the water heater, air conditioners, and to the microwave if you have too many things drawing too much power at once.
I have seen sometimes when we'd run the microwave when on 20 amp power when something else is on using a lot of power, that it would somehow shed power to the microwave such that microwave would still run, but it would not heat anything. Somehow, the power management unit would limit the amperage the microwave could have, so it would either not heat, or heat very slowly. Seen it do that a handful of times, didn't think it was hurting anything. I'd just turn off whatever it was that was using up all the amperage (water heater typically) and start microwave over and it'd work fine.
When microwave quit, we were running both the microwave and a toaster at same time (was making breakfast). Wondering if the lesson learned here is that the power management system limiting power to the microwave, while it works to keep you from blowing a breaker, it seems to shorten the microwave's life drastically, and in this case fried it. Maybe from now on, we don't run the microwave unless we make dang sure no other large load is running, because power management system will shut power off to microwave and burn it out before its time?
Does this sound plausible? Does anyone have any other thoughts?
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willald
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11/13/23 08:31am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Coating peeling off seats
Yep, as already said, very common issue on a lot of RVs. They use cheap, fake leather that starts flaking apart after a couple years. And, it always seems to start happening right after warranty is up, so manufacturer probably isn't going to be much help.
We had this happen on our 2012 Forest River Georgetown we used to own, not 2 years after we bought it (new). Ended up taking it to a local upholstery shop and had both captain chairs and the sofa re-upholstered with good quality leather. Was fine after that, new upholstery was still in great shape after several more years of use and when we traded that rig back in 2021.
So far (knock on wood), this hasn't been an issue on our Newmar after 2 years of quite a bit of use. Newmar seems to use good quality furniture made from better material.
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willald
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10/31/23 01:20pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: full wall slideout issue - maybe
Sorry about the formatting.
72185 County Rd 3 Newmar Corporation 866.290.5371 Nappanee, IN 46550 Fax 574.773.2007
Product Information Bulletin
Date Issued
01/29/15
PIB #
Full-wall Slide-out 38 Operation
YEAR /
BRAND / TYPE
/ MODEL #
The intent of this Product Information Bulletin is to inform of the recommended operating procedure for all Newmar Product with full-wall slide-outs.
Product Information
In the past, Newmar has recommended leveling the coach prior to deploying the slide-outs. Although this is still the recommendation for coaches without full wall slide-outs, Newmar makes the following recommendation for coaches equipped with a full wall slide-out.
PLEASE REVIEW THIS RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE:
Motorhomes, as all vehicles, flex in travel. Flexing may be different due to terrain and the coach’s fulcrums (resting on tires or jacks). This is normally not an issue for coaches without a full wall slide-out. Although the jacks and the slide-out mechanism are both welded to the chassis frame, with a full wall slide-out, you have a large box (the slide), inside another large box (the coach) and they both flex, especially the coach. As the coach flexes, this movement is more noticeable in the outside reveal due to the wider slide-out.
Additional care should be taken once the coach is parked. Before operating the full wall slide-out, one should walk around the driver’s side and look at the “reveal” or “gap” of the two vertical wall trims around the full wall slide-out to make sure there is plenty of clearance so the trim will not rub when running the slide-out to the out position. If the gap looks good then the slide out can be operated. If the gap is tight in one or more places, try leveling the coach to see if that corrects it, then operate the slide out. If at any time there is cause for concern, do not operate the slide-out and call Newmar Customer Service.
PLEASE NOTE: Most often the gap will look best when sitting on the tires and not the jacks.
If you have any questions regarding this P.I.B., please contact a Warranty Service Representative at Newmar Corpo
Thank you, Tom, this is very, very helpful. If I'd known this, would probably never have had this problem.
I'll bet the gap or 'reveal' in our case after I did a not-so-good job of leveling last weekend, was very tight.
Will definitely keep this in mind going forward.
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willald
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10/26/23 12:32pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: full wall slideout issue - maybe
Full wall slide have duel motors?
I might check and see that both drive motors and screws are synced and balanced.
Yes, dual motors. Dealer checked that, and all is good there.
Opnspaces has a good point. Could the entire structure be in a bind when this happened??
Yeah, I think thats what it was. Once got off that site, brought jacks up, all is good. Definitely a lesson learned from this, like said in the previous posts.
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willald
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10/26/23 07:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: full wall slideout issue - maybe
Newmar has the strongest slide system in the industry. They do have some “rules” for their slide system. First before extending slides check the vertical gap between the slide and the mh. This is called the reveal. If there is a gap (on BOTH sides), extend slides, otherwise don’t. Newmar states that most of the time (perhaps not in op’s case) the gap will be best BEFORE leveling. They don’t say when to extend, before or after leveling, just make sure you have a gap.
I have leveled mine just to find no gap or a too close for comfort gap and de-leveled to find the gaps were good. Extended the slides, then leveled. Make sure you reverse the process in the same order.
All the twisting to the frame and slide from the leveling probably resulted in the slide not being square, but not enough to cause damage. You were indeed lucky.
Thank you, Tom, this is really good info. I agree, the twisting is why the slideout wouldn't go all the way out, but fortunately didn't twist things enough to do any damage, so we are fine.
Yes, Newmar has an awesome, very stout slide mechanism, was one of the things that sold us on Newmar.
I had not heard, read that about the vertical gap thing to check for with the slideout. What exactly is meant by vertical gap between MH and slideout? Do you mean, the gap between bottom of slideout floor and MH floor?
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willald
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10/26/23 07:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: full wall slideout issue - maybe
I would assume rig was not quite level as a result the slideout was somewhat racked and would not extend fully. Once the rig is leveled properly the issue goes away.
Yeah, I think this pretty well sums up what happened. Crazy thing is we've been camping with this particular rig a LOT for over 2 years, sometimes in very remote, unlevel (to put it mildly) campsites, and this was never an issue until now.
The takeaway is avoid the really unlevel spots when possible. Pull up on boards to get closer to level or do whatever you can if you encounter a really unlevel site. Know that the slideout will not extend properly on a really unlevel site.
Agreed, thats definitely the lesson learned from this.
I've found over the years, that the best sites with the best views, access, etc. are usually the ones that are the most unlevel. Sooo, I carry a lot of blocks for leveling, and usually don't mind using them and taking the time to get it leveled even on the most unlevel sites (been on sites muuuuuch worse than the one we were on this last weekend). This was one time, though, I got lazy and in a hurry, and paid the price, haha. Hopefully won't happen again.
Not quite the same but I don't like it when the auto level function raises my 5'ers wheels off the ground. I do what I can to avoid the wheel raising scenario
when I recognize a site is way out of level
I am the same way, Lantley! I will not let a wheel get off the ground. If site is that unlevel, I break out the big, long blocks I built for driving wheels up on, and will drive whichever side is low up onto the blocks. Then, will stack several blocks under each of the jacks so the jacks don't have to extend as far, either. I've found that the more blocks you use and the less you extend your jacks, generally the more stable things are inside.
Seen people lift wheels off the ground all the time, and I imagine the jacks will handle it and won't hurt anything. However, I don't like the lateral stability you lose when you do that. The tires need to be on the ground, to help with lateral stability.
Fortunately, Lantley, where we are going next week up in your neck of the woods, the site is very level (and beautiful!), so won't be a problem. Looking forward to meeting up with you. :)
Will
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willald
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10/26/23 07:20am |
Class A Motorhomes
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full wall slideout issue - maybe
Soo, last weekend, we went camping with some friends up in the mountains. Site we got to was not very level, really had to work the jacks, blocks to get the RV level. Tried to open the (full wall) slide out, it makes some strange noises, seems like its grinding on something, but does go out, although doesn't seem like it will go all the way out - In back, its all the way out, flush, but in front, the top corner isn't all the way out, its lacking about 3/4" and that corner will go no further out.
Anyway, doesn't seem like its an issue, not feeling any cold air or seeing any daylight from the top front corner that didn't appear to go all the way out, so we decide to leave it out, go on with camping trip and not worry about it until we get back. Was lot of wind, and rain one day (Friday), and we were watching the slide edges real close to see if any rain leaked in (or wind). There was neither, all was good. Stayed very warm inside, too (was cold that weekend in the mountains). Slideout went back in just fine the day we left to come home.
Soooo, took it to RV dealer yesterday to have it checked out. Today they call me, say there is absolutely nothing wrong with the slideout, it is working just fine. Indeed, I just checked it out in person, and it is working just fine now, like new. All they did, was lube the various parts (lock arms, rack/pinion gear, etc). We are left wondering what went wrong when we were out in the mountains last weekend, that is just fine now.
We have used this rig (Newmar Baystar, see signature) extensively in the 2 years we've owned it. We use it nearly year round, average about 9 or 10 trips a year. It has never sat for more than a month or so between trips. Have had almost zero issues with it up until this (and not even sure this counts as an 'issue').
I do remember that I had a hard time getting the rig leveled this last trip, was in a hurry to do such and may have not done a very good job leveling it. Wondering if that is all it was that caused this. I do know that full wall slideouts like this can be a bit finicky about getting things level before they are operated.
Thoughts? Should I be worried, or just chalk this up to, 'Relax, and just do a better job of leveling next time'?
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willald
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10/25/23 12:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Screen door aggrivation
Hmmm....Over course of over 20 years of RVing, and owning a total of 5 different RVs in that time that all had the same basic door mechanism you describe here....Have never had this particular issue. Have had other issues with that latch, and am constantly adjusting it, but never had the latch/hook pull away from the main door.
I would try screwing it in with larger screws, if you can. Failing that.....Not sure, maybe drill all the way through the door, use a screw with a nut and washer? I know that'd look ugly cause then you'd have a screw head showing on outside that you'd have to seal up with some kind of sealant. Not sure what other choice you'd have, unless maybe you could use a rivet gun and rivet it to just the inner side of the main door?
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willald
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10/12/23 02:42pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Roadside assistance woes!
I won't go into details, but last couple of experiences I've had with roadside assistance via Good Sam ERS have been very disappointing as well.
I am to the point I am seriously considering dumping our Good Sam ERS soon. With how much coverage there is now for smart phones everywhere, and the availability of almost anything you need with just a quick search or two on a smart phone....Seems like emergency roadside service coverage is no longer really necessary and a waste of $$. For areas where there is limited coverage, roadside assistance would be little help, anyway, as they make it very, very difficult to get service if you don't have good cell coverage. Last few times I've needed emergency roadside service, I've been able to get better, quicker, and less expensive service much easier on my own.
That said.....I do tend to agree that its a bit of a stretch to expect roadside service to pay anything for a service call involving getting an RV freed up that is stuck, off road. I'd expect in that case, to have to pay out of pocket for most if not all service needed.
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willald
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10/11/23 08:22am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Do it yourself Oil Change on Newmar class a gas motorhome
I also change the oil myself on our Newmar (see signature). Am actually fixing to do that this week, as ours is due for one.
For putting new oil in, like a previous poster, I use a funnel on a long (about 3') hose, that I slide in the oil filler and run up over the 'hood', funnel usually sits close to windshield wipers when I'm refilling. Yes, you may need a step stool for this depending on your height. I'm just tall enough that its not necessary. Yes, you can use a 5 quart container of oil, I do.
Be very, very patient, when putting in the new oil. Oil goes down that long tube slowly, and very easy to pour too fast and spill it down the front. Done that more than once.
Getting old oil and filter out and replacing oil filter underneath is not much different than any other vehicle. Its a little tough to worm yourself under there, but once you get down there, there's plenty of room to move around. Yes, the front suspension bar going across right where oil comes out is annoying, but easy to work around.
I know this is a whole nother subject/debate, but I highly recommend you use full synthetic oil. Gasser motorhome engines work very hard all the time, and it is very expensive and labor intensive if the engine ever needs any major work, so I do all I can to insure it will last.
Resetting the oil life meter is a whole nother story. The manual Ford provided with ours is incorrect and out of date. It indicated a procedure involving turning ignition on, pressing gas pedal so many times, etc. to reset the monitor. That doesn't work anymore. Now, you do it via the menu, settings on the display. I believe it was under 'Driver aids', as I recall from the last time (took me a while to get that done first time, as I kept trying to use the procedure the manual provided, which wouldn't work).
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willald
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10/11/23 07:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How to keep gray water from coming up into tub?
Well, I was gonna suggest, if you’re camped in an appropriate spot, dump the gray out. In the woods, in a ditch, in a field, etc. Not thru the neighbors campsite and their outdoor carpet.
If one can have a little common sense, it is easy to dispose of gray water responsibly and unnoticed. Just need enough garden hose to get it where you need it.
Heck we spend 1-2 weeks in the same popular (relatively crowded) private park every year. I’ve disposed of well over 500gallons of gray, unnoticed by anyone. How do I know? Because the next morning I can’t tell, myself.
Sorry if that gets anyone’s feelers all wadded up. But if one has enough IQ to function normally, one also has the ability to lose some gray water without making a mess, harming anything or upsetting anyone.
If not, then drive to the dump station I suppose.
I suspect there are a lot of people that would agree with this and probably do this, but would never state such publicly, and most especially not on a public internet RV forum.
I also agree with a previous post, that plugging the shower is a very bad idea and should be avoided, because you could pressurize plumbing that was not meant to be pressurized, leading to all kinds of problems later on. There must be a better way than that..
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willald
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10/10/23 02:25pm |
General RVing Issues
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